… by George Borrow, was one of those books I bought and kept for a couple of decades and never got round to reading. It made the charity shop pile the last time we moved. The book had appealed to the younger romantic in me when we’d visited and holidayed in the Principality regularly – my wife was born 4th generation Cardiff, so we had family there – but over time the active Welsh connection has dwindled, and save for the odd fleeting visit we hadn’t spent any time there for years. Two weeks ago we returned for a few days, staying with friends and relations in Ceredigion – in Aberystwyth and then down the coast a bit, in New Quay, to be precise. So, a few impressions of mild Wales (with Aber mostly mended from those storms).
- the revolution in durable outdoor house paints of many colours has certainly brightened the place up. That depressingly monotonous (rain-dampened) grey vernacular architecture is mostly, now, on its way out.
- approaching Aber, flying overhead more red kites than I’d previously seen in a lifetime. A magnificent sight. Can’t find a collective noun, but there were enough for one.
this fine collection of stuffed toys the sort of thing that no longer surprises, staying with friends whose grown-up children have fled the coop; not in our house, but not unusual- Aberystwyth very much a student town now, but it’s falling down the league tables and the locals are worried, with the newish unpopular Vice-Chancellor getting the blame. Unprecedented (we were told) ads in windows in town offering cheap accommodation. Impressive Arts Centre complex half way up the hill out of town.
in Aber, one of those delightful second-hand bookshops it’s so absorbing to spend time in – two floors, cramped honeycomb of rooms – so full they can’t possibly get more books in, can they?: Ystwyth Books. (On Abe he trades as Martin’s Books). Bought selections of Donne and e e cummings.- that was after a civilized picnic – if I could remember the friendly caff we got it from I’d say because it was delicious – in the no-charge castle grounds just off the sea front. Nearby, in full view, a striking Victorian white elephant of a building that they still haven’t decided what to do with
it only rained one morning, stayed damp for the afternoon, which was just right for the walk along the boardwalk on the wetlands of the – again – wonderfully friendly Dyfi Osprey Project. Timed it just right to see Monty, their returning osprey, fly back to the nest – after his me-time – and his this year’s mate, feeding the nestlings. My luck to be on one of the telescopes in the beautifully constructed wood observation lodge when that happened. Some fine specimens around the seed feeders at the project entrance too – bullfinches a particular treat for us. And again, one wonders about what I have to call the myth of finches and expensive nijer seed – the sunflower feeder was by far the busiest.
And so down the coast a bit for a couple of nights just outside New Quay: guitars, dolphins, feasts, gardens and faeries: 
- had a lovely afternoon at Sculptureheaven, two and a half acres of themed gardens in a rural setting with integral gallery, workshop and tea room. There’s a Gothic Garden (goth sculptures with purple and black plants), a Planetary Herb Garden (I know, I know, but it’s beautifully presented), a zen garden, an Angel House (a bit spooky, actually), a faery dell, a rowan grove with hare sculptures dotted around and a whole lot more. Friendly and welcoming, it’s
enchanting and peaceful (and collectively not as twee as a cynic like me might think), a hands-on family’s labour of love, created from scratch over a decade, with wit and spirit (they’ll show you the photos from when they acquired the place). There’s a green earth goddess, like the ones at Heligon, but, they say, she’s high maintenance; a photo brings up the rear of this post. If you’re thinking of going, make sure of the opening hours and be prepared (absolutely no pressure, of your own volition, but still) to spend some money. More Green Men are not to be seen in one place outside of the pages of a book. - the tea room at Sculptureheaven deserves a bullet point all of its own. Tea and miniature cakes are to be had for a suggested donation to The Halo Trust (a landmines charity). All were tasty but the lemon drizzle cupcake was divine (the secret being a touch of lime, said the baker and co-proprietor).
more charity with the evening open gardens at Llanerchaeron gives a completely different feel to a routine NT day house visit. Shadows have more to play with, it’s cooler. Folk trio fiddling away on the lawn on the way in to the extensive walled garden and wooded lake. Really pleased with this photo of whatever it is (to enlarge – like all the other photos – click, then click again on that page).- the best trifle tart I’ve ever had at The Hungry Trout – what does that mean in the context of humans stuffing themselves? – in New Quay.
that came after we’d had the luck to see the dolphins frolicking at second attempt. Note to self: get a proper camera. That black dot is one of a family of five …- inserted at this juncture to give the pics some room, where we stayed one of our hosts dealt occasionally, as a sideline, in Fender guitars, so, I got to play – never done it before! – 5 Strats (one with an absolute dream of a neck) and a Telecaster through a small Marshall amp. Phew, rock and roll … Now know I’m a Telecaster man.
and down on the quay in New Quay, a bus shelter proudly sporting the town’s youth’s talents or something. Two of five – the other three are 
monochrome – are pictured here. Not quite sure why, really. I’m intrigued as much as anything.- as promised:
The earth goddess at Sculptureheaven; she’s a high-maintenance gardening project.
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A long time since I saw Aber – thank you for photos and report
PS You might be amused to know that one winter day long long ago, I was having a History lecture in the Old College, and it was stopped because the sea was blowing in around the window frames right across the lecture room, and we were all getting wet. And that was on the third floor. But it was a lovely building to learn and work in – I never quite forgave them for moving up to the Penglais campus, whatever the practicalities.